[PaVaSteeler]

I've never heard Reload will make matte shiny

A Guy

Upon further research it does appear Reload mixes well with matte/satin finishes. Not all products do.

 

[thomaswatk]

A lot of synthetic sealants these days can be used on vinyl without detrimental effect. But as for a paste wax, no, not really. Sealants give better protection anyway, so its a win/win.

A couple good ones: CarPro Reload (personal fav), and Optimum Opti-Seal.

You can also ceramic coat vinyl and it looks amazing provides exceptional protection that don't have to keep reapplying constantly.

My question concerns CarPro Reload and other like products. I have seen ads that claim they fill in swirl marks. Although I don't have any swirl marks on my newer cars, I do have some on a couple of classic cars. Do these products really get rid of swirl marks simply by applying it ? I just waxed the car that I noticed the swirl marks on and I hate to take off the wax if this stuff won't really help the swirl marks.

 

[DeepC]

Any advice on the flat black rally stripes? Should I just wax as with the rest of the finish? Or something else.

 

[A Guy]

Hello, Jeff really isn't very active here with his booming business and wife and kids But Reload can help slightly with swirls, but it really doesn't have any special filling capacity. Carpro's Essence Plus (NOT Essence) also has some slight filling ability, but I don't think either is worth removing a fresh wax job for. Some old school waxes and sealants also temporarily fill swirls

A Guy

Any advice on the flat black rally stripes? Should I just wax as with the rest of the finish? Or something else.

You really don't want to wax matte stripes, they will start to get a shine to them, and many waxes will leave a white residue very hard to get off! . As much of a pain as it is, you are better to tape them off with painters tape if you are going to wax.

I'd use Dr. Beasely's or something made especially for matte when doing stripes

A Guy

 

[thomaswatk]

Hello, Jeff really isn't very active here with his booming business and wife and kids But Reload can help slightly with swirls, but it really doesn't have any special filling capacity. Carpro's Essence Plus (NOT Essence) also has some slight filling ability, but I don't think either is worth removing a fresh wax job for. Some old school waxes and sealants also temporarily fill swirls

A Guy

Thanks for the reply..........kinda what I thought but was hoping for a miracle...oh well

 

[DeepC]

You really don't want to wax matte stripes, they will start to get a shine to them, and many waxes will leave a white residue very hard to get off! . As much of a pain as it is, you are better to tape them off with painters tape if you are going to wax.

I'd use Dr. Beasely's or something made especially for matte when doing stripes

A Guy

Cool thanks

 

[Unicorn]

Adam's Polish guy since 2004...………….

I just works for my rides.

 

[RobsRTplus]

Ever wanted to visit the Bay Area? Make a nice trip, drop off car, get a rental, look around, drive home in perfect car

If that isn't in your plans, all I can say is if a detailer is authorized to apply Cquartz Reserve, then they have proven themselves to have superior skills. You can start your search there

https://cqfinest.com/find-an-installer/

Unless Jeff can recommend someone (come to the Bay Area, you know you want to!! )

A Guy

I know this is an old thread but wondering what the difference is between the Pro and the Finest Reserve is? Also approx how much it costs to coat my car? Thanks.

 

[A Guy]

Both are professional only install products. They both must be approved by Carpro, with Finest Reserve being the hardest to get approval for. The Professional is guaranteed for 2 years, and FR 3 years. It has to do with chemical composition, thickness, properties and water angle, etc. It's actually quite complex, and if you didn't know it was for real, it would sound like it was made up, lol. FR does require being cured with IR lamps.

You can be sure if your detailer is authorized for Pro, they are good with quality results. If they are auth for FR, they are the absolute best. Apparently 99 out of 100 who apply to be able to use Pro are rejected. That makes them 1%ers so to speak. The number who are approved for FR would then be the 1%ers of that 1%. I only mention this because you can be assured of the quality of work before you agree. My detailer, who started this thread, is one of the FR installers, the best of the best.

As far as picking between the two, it will likely come down to cost and expectations. I'll bet you will be thrilled with Professional, but the paint correction before FR might exceed that.

Cost is hard, it depends a lot on how much paint correction is needed. My 4 month old car required a 2 stage correction, and my detailer spent approx. 25 hours on the correction alone. Once corrected, the coating itself is likely similarly priced for most applications, depending on size and complexity.

If your detailer installs both, have a discussion with them on what they suggest. Since they are quality installers, they most likely won't just push you towards the more expensive options, but will likely tell you the differences in expectations, etc.

Where I live is very expensive, my detailer at the time charged $75 an hour for the correction. My cost for the correction and coating of the paint alone would have been $1,650. I also had the wheels and calipers done, and Dlux on all plastics which added to the cost. Expect to pay something similar depending on location and paint correction hourly costs.

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A Guy

 

[PaVaSteeler]

Any advice on the flat black rally stripes? Should I just wax as with the rest of the finish? Or something else.

GAWD NO...Do NOT wax flat black stripes!. The wax will ruin the finish, and ultimately make them look glossy (if you're lucky), or blotchy (more likely).

I use Gyeon Matte coating for my satin black (it's good for matte or satin). There's a couple other non-ceramic products you could use; McKees 37 Matte seemed to have the best reviews I found before settling on the Gyeon.

 

[Nightwing]

Heres my question...

Ok, so I started removing the Shaker stripes off my car and started with the hood. I used a hair dryer and some automotive safe adhesive removal afterwards to wipe away any residue that may stay using a microfiber cloth. I did notice a ghost line of where the stripes were at but mostly for the skinny ones on the side.

Also I washed the hood after and noticed that the water would not avoided the areas where the stripes were at and it would stay dry. Is this normal?

I haven’t started on the roof or trunk yet.

Is there any recommendations you guys can offer to remedy this. Are there products or methods I should do? Waxing? Polishing? Buffering? Etc...

 

[Gila Hemi]

Heres my question...

Ok, so I started removing the Shaker stripes off my car and started with the hood. I used a hair dryer and some automotive safe adhesive removal afterwards to wipe away any residue that may stay using a microfiber cloth. I did notice a ghost line of where the stripes were at but mostly for the skinny ones on the side.

Also I washed the hood after and noticed that the water would not avoided the areas where the stripes were at and it would stay dry. Is this normal?

I haven’t started on the roof or trunk yet.

Is there any recommendations you guys can offer to remedy this. Are there products or methods I should do? Waxing? Polishing? Buffering? Etc...

I would clay bar the hood, and maybe your entire ride while you're at it.

 

[PaVaSteeler]

Heres my question...

Ok, so I started removing the Shaker stripes off my car and started with the hood. I used a hair dryer and some automotive safe adhesive removal afterwards to wipe away any residue that may stay using a microfiber cloth. I did notice a ghost line of where the stripes were at but mostly for the skinny ones on the side.

Also I washed the hood after and noticed that the water would not avoided the areas where the stripes were at and it would stay dry. Is this normal?

I haven’t started on the roof or trunk yet.

Is there any recommendations you guys can offer to remedy this. Are there products or methods I should do? Waxing? Polishing? Buffering? Etc...

You can try wiping down the areas covered by the vinyl you removed with Goo Gone to remove any residual adhesive. This may be what is repelling the water.

Remember, the vinyl was applied on bare clear coat; no wax or sealant has touched the paint you’ve uncovered.

 

[Nightwing]

Woke up this morning and it looks a lot better. The first 4 we’re taken under direct sunlight. The last one is under a garage. Still need to detail it

 

[Stumblin Steve]

Looks good! I have the same car (except engine 🙁) and plan to do the exact same thing. As others noted you just need to use a solvent to remove any residual adhesive, wash, clay, polish and protect. 👊

 

[sfdude]

How do you correct scratches in the tail light bar black glossy part?

Haha. I don’t think it’s really possible with good results. And even if you do, they come back when you breathe on it.

 

[Stumblin Steve]

Haha. I don’t think it’s really possible with good results. And even if you do, they come back when you breathe on it.

It is possible and the results are awesome. I’ll need to redo mine before I coat but with a 3” and 1” polisher they come out glossy and scratch free. Of course if you have deeper scratches then you might only be able to lessen them but love marks are usually not too bad to remove. Granted if you don’t know what you’re doing you could end up with a bigger mess on your hands because that material is typically soft so if you approach it too aggressively you end up with a ton of haze.